To insert the gores, I first mark the cutting line on the back on the coutille in pencil. I add a half inch on each side at the edge and a quarte inch each side at the point, then joni the dots to mark a wedge shape around the cutting line. I then machine stitch this in a small length, before cutting along the line to just before the end, where I snip into the corners to for a triangle. Press the cut pieces under and position the gore underneath. I keep a half inch seam allowance from the edge of the gore as far as possibe, forcing the straight edge to for a curve. Once its all pinned, I top stitch all the way around as close as I can to the edge. I found the gores were quite a lot longer than the cuts made to recieve them, so I trmmed them once they were in place.
I'm really pleased with the way it looks, and even more please to report that it fits! I was getting more and more nervous every time I held it up against myself, but I got to the point where I could tack on the shoulder straps, put the grommets in and lace it up to check. So please - lacing it comfortably tight I get a 2" gap down the back, and the wrinkles from the cording disappear. The shape is quite straight on the waist , but I think thats probably how its meant to be! The straight busk at the front (more on that next time) pulls it in between my breasts and gives a nice shape.
I decided to use non-peiod correct metal grommets for the lacing, as I wanted the strength without the hours of hand stitching through coutille! I've bought some white enamel paint to paint them to match, and will probably cover them in buttonhole stitch some day when I feel like stitching in fromt of the TV.
Pictures of me wearing it next time (when I have something on underneath to protect my modesty!)